MERZOUGA: THE SAHARA DESERT by Janie Fulling

Merzouga is a quiet village on the edge of the Sahara Desert in Morocco.

Twins Khadija and Fatima sell toy camels they weave out of grass to passing travelers at a gorge overlook. Our program director bought them scarves and some of us took home grass camels.

I visited Merzouga twice – once with my astrophile boyfriend Dan, and once with my study abroad program for a last Morocco hurrah. 

One of the most beautiful sunsets I'd ever seen. 

Our desert camp

Some of the students in my group brought steel wool to light on fire. 

Gathering around the fire during a cold night under the stars.

Gathering around the fire during a cold night under the stars.

Along the roadside, vendors sell trilobites, geodes, and other natural wonders of the Sahara.

Village people in Merzouga proudly played music from sub-Saharan Africa blended with Moroccan and Amazigh music.

Our program director, Mo, on top of one of the 4x4s in which we toured the desert. Some of the most fun we had all trip. 

Our caravan to the camp

Our group took donations to the nomads of the Sahara, who were celebrating a wedding that day. The women were dressed to the nines in traditional garments. 

My lovely program director, Iman, against a sunset of purple, blue, and green.

Pre-sunrise on the horizon

TANGIER by Janie Fulling

In case you can't tell by the expression on my face, I loved Tangier. We saw the sea, visited all the spots in the medina used for filming major movies like Inception and Spectre, and it rained, creating awesome light and reflections. The street photography opportunities were phenomenal, and when the heavy rain drove me indoors, I fell in love with the wacky fish market and the proud salesmen who work there.

RABAT by Janie Fulling

Once the site of the Roman city of Chellah, Rabat is now the capital of Morocco. We bridged the ancient world and modern governance, visiting Chellah's ruins, the Mausoleum of Mohammed V, the first king of Morocco under independence, and of course, Rabat's old medina.

CHEFCHAOUEN by Janie Fulling

Known as the blue city, Chefchaouen is all curved walls and bright pastels. Dr. Suess would have been right at home here.

At the end of a long day of medina exploring, we climbed to a mosque on the top of a hill to watch the sunset.

PC Anjali Tallapragada

MT. TOUBKAL by Janie Fulling

At elevation 13,671 ft, Mt. Toubkal is the highest mountain in North Africa. So naturally, never having been in any mountains before, let alone climbed them, I (along with some wonderful friends) summited it. I'm enamored with the mountains now, having officially been christened a BMW (burly mountain woman) by Colorado summer mountain guide and my friend, Darylann. These photos mark my first impressions of absolute wonder. 

Actual mountain goats in the actual mountains

Our first day hiking was 7 miles upward through mountain valleys to get to a refuge at about 9,000 feet elevation. The trek takes about six hours from the base, and my friends and I stopped every so often to eat peanut butter and jelly sandwiches, granola, and bananas we had brought in our packs.

The refuge in which we stayed overnight. 5 of us slept on 3 mattresses with massive blankets huddled for warmth. The whole thing is made of stone and has few windows, so it is freezing and dark during the day and night. I wore approximately 5 layers while we were here.

Sunday morning, we woke up at 4 to eat a breakfast of coffee, tea, bread, jam, and hard boiled eggs. We packed food and water into one bag and headed out at 5am. The trail is difficult to find and completely dark, so we waited until a couple with a guide was leaving and scrambled after them. 

We were following a couple and their guide, who took frequent enough breaks that I got a few long exposures on the way up. This was 20 seconds at f/8, ISO 1600.

The couple and their guide we followed to the top.

First look at sunrise: the sky was distinct strips of color and we could just barely see the horizon.

The sun creeping over the mountaintops was magnificent. 

After 4 grueling hours, we made it to the summit, exhausted and amazed.

I CLIMBED MY FIRST EVER MOUNTAIN! THE TALLEST ONE IN NORTH AFRICA! HOLY CRAP!

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And after 15 minutes of admiring the view, sharing muesli cookies with our new Moroccan friend Lazeeza, and taking photos, we headed back down. 

Windows desktop background or High Atlas mountains?

Windows desktop background or High Atlas mountains?

And just like that, the sun set on our time in the High Atlas mountains. From sunrise to sunset we had seen the peaks and valleys and I listened to "Wide Open Spaces" about a million times and stared up at the mountains around me with the knowledge that I had climbed higher than all of them. My heart is full.

Aroumd, the village where we stayed before heading back home the next morning.

Latifah, 9, guiding us to Imlil, where we would catch a taxi to go home.

"WE DID IT!"

The train ride back home to Meknes. We were sore, bruised, coated in a layer of dirt, and feeling a lot of things.

FES by Janie Fulling

I've been to Fes twice now; once with my program to learn about the craftspeople and artisans who have made their living here for 800-1300 years, and once to meet friends and explore. It's an hour on the train to and from Meknes, and we happened to catch a stunning sunset on our way home.

Who needs google maps when you have obscure arrows pointing you the way in the medina?

We toured the mosaic and pottery cooperative, where they took us through every stage of their process, from throwing on the wheel to firing to final decorations. 

Every individual mosaic piece is made by hand – every shape from square to star. 

Half-finished mosaic tables and other works sit waiting for metalwork

Each piece was painted by hand

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And of course, the showroom was lovely. 

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IFRANE by Janie Fulling

Our program took a trip to Ifrane, known for its wooded areas for hiking. We had breakfast in the Alpine-style (think provincial Dutch or Scandinavian) town before setting off on a hike up the dusty terrain. We stopped at a spot where locals gather to sell oranges and horse rides before proceeding to the top.

The easier parts of the walk were speckled with frisbee tossing and snacking.

Arriving at the top, we could see the neighboring town of Azrou against a backdrop of mountains

Arriving at the top, we could see the neighboring town of Azrou against a backdrop of mountains

VOLUBILIS by Janie Fulling

The Roman ruin of Volubilis is a UNSECO world heritage site in my Meknes backyard. Our group took a trip to ogle the mosaics once in large homes, take photos through still standing archways, and climb the stairs of ancient temples. 

One of the most well-preserved mosaics in the city – the colors still intact!

Our guide told us this once had some actual utilitarian directional purpose, but I'm not sure anyone believed him.

EID AL-KABIR by Janie Fulling

Eid al-Kabir, or Eid al-Adha, is a Muslim holiday celebrating Abraham's sacrifice to God (Genesis 22 in the Old Testament if you're interested in the story). The whole family partakes in the sacrifice of God's gift of food and nutrients, bringing them closer together. Moroccans are very connected to the source of their food in this way, and thus have a much different perspective than many Americans. Watching my Moroccan family work together in this labor of love was incredible, and I'm grateful to have been welcomed in participating in such an important holiday.

WARNING: Many of these photos are graphic.

Vans and trucks bring sheep into the city the week before Eid

It's not uncommon to see people walking their sheep home during this time

A sheep is transported through the medina on a truck.

Our sheep is brought home. We have two to sacrifice: one for each family unit celebrating in the home. One for our host mom (Hunan), host brother (Mohammed), Kasey and I, and the other for Hunan's daughter Sarah and her husband and son.

Baby Aweb and his Aunt Miriam

Baby Aweb and his Aunt Miriam

For Eid, family comes together to celebrate

 

 

THE SACRIFICE:

Intestines hanging to dry with the delicates

A delicacy of liver wrapped in fat – many Moroccans' favorite thing to eat during Eid.

A delicacy of liver wrapped in fat – many Moroccans' favorite thing to eat during Eid.

OUZOUD FALLS by Janie Fulling

Our group went to Ouzud Falls during the first days of our program for some nature-infused adventure. The trek down to the bottom is sprinkled with restaurants all selling the same thing (tagine) and donkeys trying to pass on the narrow steps. We eventually got down to the bottom, where families were playing in the water (despite the no swimming sign) and taking boat rides around the base. 

A Moroccan day at the beach

Our group went past the first two drops to a third, smaller pool, where we could swim and explore more privately.

By the end of the day we were all covered in mud and exhausted from climbing slippery rocks and jumping off of the higher rocks into the frigid water.

 

And sunrise from our motel in Beni Mellal the next morning was gorgeous.

MARRAKECH by Janie Fulling

The medina in Marrakech had winding streets where locals and tourists purchased food and goods to take home. I wanted to buy it all. 

Moroccan women have a cure for EVERYTHING.

A lovely woman showed us how to make argan oil, used both in cosmetics and cooking. 

 

 

 

 

The leather tanneries of Morocco – we met Berber men tanning camel and cow leather in a multi-step process that takes up to 3 months. 

The leather tanneries of Morocco – we met Berber men tanning camel and cow leather in a multi-step process that takes up to 3 months. 

 

 

One of the courtyards in Bahia Palace, home to the 19th century grand vizier to the sultan, his four wives, and twenty-four concubines. It was a pretty big place.

Every ceiling was completely different.

  

 

 

Two friends and I ate couscous at Cafe Arabe on a terrace overlooking the medina.

The medina turned into an entirely different place at night, where families came out to witness the spectacles on the square in cool weather. It was wildly overwhelming as crowds gathered around acrobats, storytellers, musicians, and snake charmers. Everywhere we looked there was another thing to see, another person competing for your attention and a couple dirhams.

Storytellers in the square

Child acrobats

CASABLANCA by Janie Fulling

Eglise Notre Dame de Lourdes - Casablanca's catholic church, completed in the 1950s. All the glass was cut and stained by hand and is absolutely breathtaking.

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Wares in Casablanca's medina (old town)

 

Hassan II Mosque, the third largest mosque in the world. One of the few that non-Muslims can visit. I fell in love with the architecture here. 

My lovely roommate, Kasey.

The washing area, where men and women come to wash before prayer.

 

 

Casablanca's beach life

I was absolutely enamored with the horses on the beach, and also with this poor little boy with a cast trying to single-handedly bury himself in the sand.